We decided to go ahead and install our custom turbo
kit onto the D15B7 for the time being to make sure
everything is working properly, before we put the
new engine in and we dont' care about the stock motor.
So if it blows then it's no major loss.
First thing we did was remove the bumper to make
it ALOT easier to work on the car. And to run all
the charge lines to the intercooler. After we got
the front bumper off we decided to take the exhaust
manifold off ( the header). To bolt the turbo to the
engine I picked up a 88-91 CRX HF Stock Exhaust Manifold.
It will fit all D series Motors. The reason i choose
this manifold is because the design makes it perfect
for holding a turbo on with minor modifacations.
In order to bolt the turbo up i created a adapter
plate that allows me to create a nice exhaust flow
from the manifold into the turbo. The plate was made
out of 3/4 inch steel. Roughly 4.5 inches wide, and
long. I marked the plate with the gaskets for the
turbo and the manifold. then used a milling machine
to drill the ports out. After that it took some hand
grinding with a die grinder. Once that was all finished
it was time to put the turbo on the engine and visualize
where our charge pipes and other lines would be run
Everything seemed to fit ok. We did run into a problem
with the wastegate. It sat up against the block and
wouldn't allow us to get the turbo mounted all the
way in. I took the wastegate off the turbo and made
a extension for the arm. Then bent a custom bracket
so that the wastegate would sit away from the block
and would function correctly. I also had to remove the A/C condensor support bracket on the engine to fit the turbo. You'll notice in the
picture above that we already tapped a oil return
line into the oil pan. To do this you will want to
drain as much of the oil out of the car as possible.
Then start unbolting the oil pan. If you can't get
the oil pan to break it's seal. Use a rubber hammer
and slightly hit it around each corner untill it breaks
loose. If you plan on re-using the gasket then don't
try to pry it with a screwdriver!. Once you get the oil pan out it's time to drill into it and put the fitting in. I suggest using
some sort of Sealant around the fitting. We drilled our hole just right so that the fitting we used would thread into the pan
then around the outside of the pan we put some RTV on the fitting.
Time to install that oil pan. Rinse any metal shavings out of it. Dry the inside and bolt it back up. Be sure to clean the gasket edge as well. You
don't want any leaks!. The next step is to run your oil lines that will cool the turbo. Most turbo's are oil and liquid cooled. To run a oil line you will need
to get a 3-way splitter with 1/8 NPT And a 1/8 NPT extension. This will go into the back of the block just above your oil filter. You will notice a sensor
that is screwed into the block. Unscrew it, and replace it with the 1/8 NPT brass extension. Connect the sensor to the 3 way splitter, and on the other end put a 1/8 barb
fitting. Standard fuel line will work fine for this. Reconnect the sensor to the wiring harness, then connect some fuel line to the barbed end. This line will go to the turbo as
the oil input. Here is a picture of the fitting installed. Sorry for the pictures poor quality.
As you can see the oil line wasn't attached yet in that image but you can see the barb end where the line will slide onto.
Here are a few of our fittings, hoses, gaskets, and boost controller that we will be using.
For anyone intrerested in purchasing our Boost Controllers feel free to email us: firstname.lastname@example.org
We sell them for $55.00 Each. Below is a closer image of the actual controller.
In the next update of this section it will have the rest of the install. I'll go back over this page as well and add more comments and a parts list. For those of
you wondering what the next steps will be. We will install the charge pipes, intercooler, and the downpipe.Then to follow will be the FMU
and i'll be running the hondata stage 4.